There are few great gelaterias in London - and it's one of senseless situations that can make the sensitive soul very sad and a bit angry. I'm not going to listen to all your arguments about 'oh, but that's cause it's cold here' - because we actually eat ice cream quite a lot, and there's no reason why it should mostly be BAD ice cream.
Ice cream can be just as good in winter, after all. When I was in Italy once in November I ate ice cream nearly every day for a month (and in fact got thinner, chiefly because I didn't fancy cooking with a whole Italian family watching me, including a huge Rottweiler, but that's another story …).
The other problem is the flavours. It's as bad as European crisps. You know in France or Germany, you find only dreary paprika and plain flavours, when you know quite well that there are worcester sauces and roast beef and mustards and thai sweet chillis of which they have not yet dreamed in their crisp philosophy. Ditto ice cream. Forget chocolate, mint or strawberry. BORING. In Florence I ate rose flavour, rice flavour, toasted honey and sesame seed, and it was simply wonderful.
Gelupo is a proper proper gelateria - AT LAST. Brought to you by the team behind Bocca di Lupo and opposite it in on Archer Street in Soho.
In appearance, it is sadly sterile. Instead of gluttonously heaped mounds of mousse and cream, each flavour is surreptitiously fished from below the level of the counter. You can't see any ice cream.
Still - this little urban beach hut has some interesting food to offer. A menu lists such daily changing delights as chestnut, hazelnut and ricotta and cherry ripple. The emphasis on nuts is particularly pleasing to me.
The rice ice cream (like frozen rice pudding) I tried was good, though not as good as I've had. Ricotta with honey and coffee was better, with rich, vibrant flavours.
Of course they also have sorbets, and the Sicilian shaved ice granita, in grape, sour cherry and watermelon, etc etc et-deliciously-c. A blood orange was fabulously tart, though the burnt almond's sweetness was overwhelming without a balancing acid.
In the back of the shop is a mini deli, selling dried pasta and frozen Bocca di Lupo sauces. Overpriced, no doubt, but useful.
This little shop is open till 11pm on less busy days and 1am on Friday and Saturday. There is no question that it's an important addition to Soho's snack scene.
More? peaches and almonds, Mennula Sicilian restaurant, Bocca di Lupo.
Both the hazelnut and pistachio at Scoop are great, sort of amazingly dense and nutty, so good if you're on ice-cream in lieu of proper food. Not very exciting flavours (and not as fancy as this one looks) but all I've tried have been most enjoyable. Chocolate, yes, but many types, including an amazing dark chocolate sorbet. Only been to the Covent Garden one, but they've just opened a new shop on Brewer St...
Posted by: HF | 09/09/2010 at 09:29 PM
I LOVE that blood orange sorbet and often get it on top of a layer of sour cherry. Great place. The chocolate sorbet is a winner too.
Posted by: Greedy Diva | 10/12/2010 at 03:32 PM