What that makes Tokyo Diner stand out (apart from the small matter of great, cheap food) is its fair attitude to both people and fish. On each table are two notices. Notice 1 says that extra rice is available on request, at no extra cost. Notice 2 states that the restaurant does not serve tuna, and explains why (because it's endangered and they can't find a really sustainable source). I LIKE Tokyo Diner.
Then there's the tips. They don't want them. It's not traditional in Japan, so they're not interested. If you tip them, they'll give the money to charity. Amongst the shysters and swindlers of the West End, it's a breath of fresh air.
Tokyo Diner is a small, traditional Japanese restaurant in Chinatown on a corner between Gerrard Street and Leicester Square.
The food? Sushi and sashimi, and from the look and taste of the stuff, there's a properly trained sushi chef back there. But there are also some really fine Japanese classics, from katsus to tofus to noodle soups. 'Sets' often provide the best value. Instead of a large dish, you'll get a smaller version of the same and three or so other bits and bobs, often including pickles, noodles, fried items and miso soup.
Like the old man Nakata in Haruki Murakami's Kafka on the Shore, I adore eel. Smoked, stewed, or best of all, japanese style: barbecued with sweet sauce over hot coals. It's the fat dripping onto the coals that smokes the delicate flesh. Unbelievable.
And the eel here lives up to expectations. The set I ordered included barbecue eel on rice, a salad of lettuce, tomato, peppers and seaweed and noodles in mushroom broth. £8.90 may sound a lot, but eel is (rightly) expensive and there are far cheaper sets on the menu.
The sets are only available from lunch to late lunch, which makes this ideal for a pre-cinema meal, or a while-shopping lunch. But as the food is quick, tasty and served from 12 till midnight 364 days a year, I can't see a time when a visit wouldn't be appropriate.
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